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London
Victoria was built as two separate stations by
the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway (LBSCR) and the South
Eastern
& Chatham Railway (SECR). These two rival companies remained
independent
until the formation of the Southern Railway in 1923. The station is adjoined along the
Buckingham Palace Road side by the magnificent former Grosvenor Hotel,
which remains a fine
hotel known
as the Thistle Victoria. In its heyday
London
Victoria was the starting point for such famous expresses as the Golden
Arrow,
the Night Ferry and the Brighton Belle. Today it is the starting point
for
services to
Sussex, Surrey, Kent and the South Coast. It is also the main station
for
international connections via the South Coast ports. In 1984 London
Victoria became the starting point for the pioneering Gatwick Express
service to London Gatwick Airport. Today London Victoria's Platform 2
is often the departure point for Orient Express
Hotels, Trains & Cruises's luxury VSOE
British Pullman train excursions.
Throughout
this “Through the Window” guide we describe
views as being left or right from the train facing in the direction of
travel
out of London.
London
Victoria to Faversham:
Trains
for Ramsgate and the North Kent Coast leave from the "Eastern" side of London Victoria station, entered via
A.W. Blomfield's grand Edwardian baroque facade, completed in 1909 for
the South Eastern & Chatham Railway (SECR). Sculpted mermaids and
other maritime motifs on the facade hint at the seaside delights in
store. Trains cross the River Thames on Grosvenor Bridge with good
views either side including to the right westwards along the river to
the decorative Chelsea and Albert Bridges, while to the left eastwards
is the towering bulk of Gilbert Scott's former Battersea Power Station.
The route across south London to Brixton
is elevated, and then the line runs through Herne Hill, West Dulwich, with the famous Dulwich College to the left
eastwards, Sydenham Hill and
under Crystal Palace to Penge East,
whose station and setting is now rather different from that painted by
Pissarro in the early 1870s. The surroundings are suburban through Kent House, Beckenham, Shortlands, Bromley South and Bickley and over the complex
Chislehurst Junction to St Mary Cray,
and then open country appears after the viaduct over the River Cray.
At Swanley the line south to Ashford
via the heart of Kent's fruit growing region branches away right
southwards and then there are good views left northwards towards the
River Thames and right southwards to the Downs. There are stations at Farningham Road, Longfield and Meopham, all rather detached from
their villages. Meopham's large 14th century church lies to the north,
while Sole Street is the
nearest station for Cobham, with its fine church, the splendid 14th and
15th century College and Owletts. To the east is Tudor Cobham Hall, set
in its park by Repton. Cobham Hall is now home to the famous Cobham Hall School. East of Sole
Street there are fine views to the right southwards and then the line
drops down towards the River Medway. We pass under the high M2 motorway
bridge and
that of the High Speed 1 (Channel Tunnel
Rail Link) with glimpses of them to the right and then
beyond are splendid views along the broad River Medway with its variety
of moored boats towards Rochester Castle and Rochester Cathedral.
With Frindsbury Church high up on the chalk cliffs to the left
northwards and Strood station
below, the train swings sharply south to cross the river.
Rochester is seen at its best from
the line's elevated route through the city centre, with a backdrop of
the Rochester Castle and Rochester Cathedral. Rochester is a splendid
but little known city and a powerful fortress from Roman times to the
Medieval period. The Rochester Castle, with its great keep, is one of
the finest Norman military buildings in England, with the Rochester
Cathedral was built between 1179 and 1240. The city's narrow streets,
whose fine buildings reflect centuries of maritime wealth, have a
particular atmosphere that was greatly attractive to Charles Dickens.
To the left northwards are the sharply curving river and the old quays.
Strood,
Rochester, Chatham and
Gillingham are, in effect, one large conurbation known as the Medway
Towns. The winding route, often elevated and in and out of tunnels,
allows good views up the River Medway toward Chatham's former naval
dockyards, established by Queen Elizabeth I, and across to the war
memorial church. The former naval dockyard are now a tourist attraction
known as the Chatham Historic Dockyard. Much of
the Chatham docklands are now being regenerated as Chatham Maritime. In
this area is the Dickens World theme
attraction devoted to the story of Charles Dickens. Leaving Gillingham, there are fine views to
the left northwards, across a foreground of fruit orchards, to the huge
expanse of the River Medway's estuary. From Rainham there is a view of Otterham
Quay, and then the line continues through fruit and hop fields to Newington, whose church is in the
woods to the left northwards, and Sittingbourne,
a centre for paper making since the 1840s. Change here for the branch
line north to the Isle of Sheppy and Sheerness, and for the Sittingbourne
& Kemsley Light Railway, whose terminus is just a short walk
from the station.
After
Sittingbourne the fruit orchards continue and to the left northwards
across the River Swale are the lowlands of Sheppy. also to the north is
Tonge's pretty barn like church, while by the line to the right
southwards is the old castle mound and a big mill near by. Teynham is a village buried in fruit
fields, and then the train reaches Faversham.
A
busy port since the Middle Ages, Faversham is also known for its beer
and a big range of maltings stands by the station. It is an attractive
town, easily explored from the big market square. Tudor buildings
include the Guildhall and the Grammer School, while the large church to
the left northwards has medievel wall paintings inside. Colour washed
and red brick cottages and terraces add to its unique character. Here
the lines divide, and trains for Ramsgate branch north east with the
line to Canterbury and Dover diverging off to the right.
Faversham to Ramsgate:
From Faversham the train runs straight
across the low lying marshland, with Graveney's delightfully decorative
and unrestored church to the left northwards. After the isolation of
the saltmarshes, an outburst of caravans and bungalows announces
Seasalter, before the line turns inland to pass to the south of Whitstable. The first steam hauled
railway in the south of England was opened between Canterbury and
Whistable in 1830, but little of it now remains. The town, famous for
its natives, or oysters, since Roman times, is to the left northwards
and is at its best around the old harbour, where there is plenty of old
fashioned seaside atmosphere. To the west and to the east along the
coast are fine sandy beaches.
Chesfield & Swalecliffe is an
extension of Whitstable, and this in turn spreads eastwards to Herne Bay. The big decorative
station also reflects the holiday atmosphere. Herne Bay was developed
as a resort from the 1830s, and the seafront terraces and big clock
tower still echo that period. Leaving Herne Bay, the line runs across
saltmarshes again, with a fine view to the left northwards towards
Reculver's ruined Saxon abbey, destroyed in 1809, and the mound that
was the Roman fort, with its ring of caravans. Crossing the network of
rivers that makes Thanet an island, the train now comes to Birchington-on-Sea, the beginning of
a spread of holiday and seaside development that extends all the way
around the North Foreland to Ramsgate. To the right southwards is Quex
House, with its towers and the Powell-Cotton
Museum.
Next
is Westgate-on-Sea and then
the train reaches Margate's
grand 1920s station. A short walk away is the little harbour and the
attractive 18th century terraces that reveal Margate's early
development as a resort. Its popularity was ensured by the invention
here of the bathing machine. It is a delightful resort, and the train
is clearly the best way to arrive. East of the station the trainpasses
Dreamland Theme Park and then runs inland across Thanet to Broadstairs. The harbour, beach and
town centre are well to the east, below the cliffs. In Broadstairs
there is also the Dickens House Museum.
A
cutting then leads to Dumpton Park
and then the train comes to the end of its journey at Ramsgate, another grand 1920s
classical station, inconveniently placed high above the town and a long
walk from the harbour, the beach and the centre of this popular resort.
Ramsgate
has been a landing palce for many visitors over the centuries from
Europe, inclouding Hengist, Horsa and St Augustine. This tradition is
kept alive by TransEuropa Ferries
and their ferry service to Ostend in Belgium. Development of the resort
started in the late 18th century, and Ramsgate still has plenty of
buildings that date from its early days, particularly in the harbour
area. It is also a town renowned for its Victorian churches, the best
being St Augustine's, by the great A.W.N. Pugin, who also built himself
a house in Ramsgate. It is an enjoyable town to explore, full of
seaside atmosphere and a fitting end to the route of the Thanet Belle.
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