London Liverpool Street to Harwich Parkeston Quay

The Route of the Hook Continental

The Great Eastern Railway grew in a rather piecemeal fashion from a number of smaller companies, and it did not complete its London terminus at London Liverpool Street until 1874. The station underwent a radical rebuilding which was completed in 1992 with a much modernised station which however still retains much of its original character. The station is now surrounded by the Broadgate office development on the former London Broad Street station site. Historically, its routes served East Anglia, the East Coast and London’s north eastern suburbs, and this pattern is maintained today. The station is fronted by the magnificent Great Eastern Hotel, which remains a prestigious hotel retaining its original name and operated by Hyatt Hotels. The Great Eastern Hotel is also home to the famous Aurora Restaurant & Bar. In its heyday London Liverpool Street was the starting point for such famous expresses as the East Anglian, the Norfolkman and the Broadsman. It was also the starting point for famous boat train services such as the Hook Continental, the Day Continental, the Antwerp Continental, the Flushing Continental and the Scandinavian that connected with ferry services to the Continent from Harwich Parkeston Quay. London Liverpool Street is also the starting point for the Stansted Express service to Stansted Airport calling at Tottenham Hale.

London Liverpool Street to Chelmsford:

On departing London Liverpool Street station train take the old Great Eastern main line through Bethnal Green, Bow and Stratford Regional station, an elevated route past old terraces, back gardens and factories. West of Stratford the trains of the Docklands Light Railway can be seen running alongside.

Looking northwards to the left of Stratford Regional domestic station can be seen Stratford International station and the new Stratford City, a magnificent new metropolitan centre for East London, built on the former railway marshalling yards. At its heart is Stratford International station on the Channel Tunnel high speed line served by Eurostar services to the Continent. Also Stratford is close to the Olympic Park where the London 2012 Olympics are to be held. This area is home to the Olympic Village and the Olympic International Zone. For the Olympics in 2012, 25,000 spectators will be moved every hour from St Pancras International to Stratford International by a fleet of new Japanese style bullet trains, the Olympic Javelin. A journey that will take just seven minutes - that's some Olympic record...

After Stratford suburban London spreads eastwards through Maryland, Forest Gate, Manor Park, and Ilford. After departing Ilford station on the left can be seen the Ilford train depot. Then the suburbs continue through Seven Kings, Goodmayes, Chadwell Heath, Romford, Gidea Park and Harold Wood and then ends suddenly as fields take over just west of Brentwood. After Shenfield the line to Southend Victoria branches off to the right, and an open landscape of fields and woods flank the line on its way towards Chelmsford. Ingatestone Hall, a grand 16^th century mansion, can be seen in the woods to the right. Ingatestone station was built in a matching style in 1846. Soon after the line passes close to Margaretting Church with its remarkable timber tower.

Chelmsford is a busy industrial town whose growth was encouraged first by the opening of the Chelmer & Blackwater Navigation in 1797, which linked it to the sea, and then by the arrival of the railway in 1843. The 15^th century parish church was given cathedral status in 1914. The world’s first radio factory was set up by Marconi in Chelmsford’s High Street in 1899.

Chelmsford to Colchester:

Leaving Chelmsford the line runs close beside the A12 to Hatfield Peverel, where there is a big depot for London’s milk supplies. At Witham the Braintree branch swings away to the left and then the line runs along the valley of the Blackwater to Kelvedon, which boasts a new station, build in a pleasant traditional style. As the train crosses the River Blackwater, there is a good view north to the left along the valley towards Coggeshall. Marks Tey’s pretty church stands in fields to the left of the line and just beyond is Marks Tey station, where the Sudbury branch meets the main line from the left.

Soon Colchester’s distinctive skyline of towers, spires and a giant water tower comes into view, but Colchester station is a long way from the town centre. More convenient is St Botolphs, on the Walton and Clacton line.

Colchester is England’s oldest recorded town, and it was a regional capital before the Roman invasion. The Romans developed it further, and the street pattern today still follows the pattern laid down in the 2^nd century AD. The town’s continuing importance is reflected by the Norman castle, whose massive keep houses the museum. In the Middle Ages it was a wealthy cloth town and the ruined abbey and priory date from this period. There are plenty of medieval, 15^th and 18^th century buildings still to be seen, as well as a splendid late Victorian Town Hall by Sir John Belcher, whose extravagant 162ft tower can be seen for miles. Colchester is also known for its parks, its oysters and its harbour, still busy despite being tidal and a long way inland from Colne’s estuary.

Colchester to Harwich Parkeston Quay:

After leaving Colchester station, the views are limited by cuttings and woods, but the train comes into a more open landscape as it approaches Manningtree. Passing Lawford Hall to the right, whose 18^th century façade conceals a Tudor mansion, and the church with its fine 14^th century chancel, the line reaches the wide expanse of the Stour estuary. Here the line to Harwich swings away to the south off the mainline to Norwich which continues north to the left. The train then passes through Manningtree village and joins the Stour at Mistley, an attractive station set high above the old warehouses and granaries on the quays, still visited by coasters and Thames Barges. Robert Adam’s church and his lodge gates to the former Hall are visible from the station. The line runs alongside the Stour, but views across to the northern shore are limited by groves of chestnut. However, the tall tower of the Royal Hospital School can be clearly seen across the water to the left. The next station is Wrabness, serving a little village whose church has a curious detached weather boarded bell tower, and then the train drops down to the wilderness of the mudflats, a haven for seabirds. Harwich’s international port and ferry terminal is at Harwich Parkeston Quay where our journey ends.

This is where passengers can board the Stena Line ferry service to the Hook of Holland in the Netherlands. There is also the DFDS Seaways ferry service to Esbjerg in Denmark.

However local trains continue on round the bay to Dovercourt, with fine views across the Stour estuary to Shotley and the mouth of the Orwell. Dovercourt is a curious little resort, with echoes of Victorian ambition, but soon the local trains end their journey at Harwich Town station. Harwich is a fine old seaside town. Georgian houses, some grand but faded hotels, and magnificent views out to sea and across the harbour make it a memorable place with a particularly English character.